List of Perennials ~ List of Fail-Safe Plants:

Gardening is more fun if you have some success to show for your time and effort. The following is a list of favorite fail-safe perennial plants:

Amsonia hubrechtli (Thread-leaf Blue Star): This former Perennial Plant of the Year is an American native with foliage that looks beautiful into late October.

Aster ‘Purple Dome’:  It likes the sun and will bloom from September until frost. Reaches 24 inches in height.

Autumn Bride Coral Bells (Heuchera villosa macrorrhiza):  A vigorous plant that is different from other coral bells. It reaches 20 inches, with wands of white in fall.

Autumn Sun Rudbeckia (Rudbeckia laciniata ‘herbsonne’): A dramatic, vigorous coneflower that reaches 5-6 feet high with bright yellow daisy-like flowers.

Baptisia Australis (Blue false indigo): A native plant that is drought-tolerant and super-adaptable.

Bigroot Geranium: This hardy perennial will grow in sun, shade, moist or dry conditions. Geranium macrorrhizum (pink) and White Ness (white) are favorites.

Black-Eyed Susan Summer Blaze (Rudbeckia ‘Summer Blaze’): This bright yellow plant thrives in full sun and attracts bees, butterflies and birds.

Blue Star Japanese Aster (Kalimeris incise “Blue Star’):  2 feet tall, pale blue flowers that bloom from midsummer. The deer leave it alone.

Boltonia ‘Snow Bank’: A large plant reaching 5-6 feet, covered with hundreds of white daisy like flowers in early September through October.


Carex ‘Ice Dance’: Good for the semi-shade garden, it forms low mounds (up to 12 inches) of variegated foliage; moderate rate of spread.

Coral Bells (Heuchera): You can’t go wrong with any of the scores of varieties that come in all colors, from maroon to black to peach. Most like partial shade and they are deer-resistant.

Day Lilies: Known as being indestructible, day lilies come in more than 100,000 varieties. Each year a variety is name the Stout Silver Medal Award Winner; any of the winners should be great. Find the listing at www.daylilies.org

Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla molis): A mounded plant with chartreuses leaves and unusual texture.

Montrose White Calamint (Calamintha nepeta ‘Montrose white’): 18 inches high, 30 inches wide and covered with tiny white flowers that bloom for months.

Northwind Switch Grass: Tall ornamental grass grows in a tight upright form and is very hardy.

Perennial Forget-Me-Not (Brunnera macrophylla): Its dainty sky-blue flowers bloom for up to six weeks in spring, and its heart shaped leaves look great all season.  Super hardy; prefers partial shade.

Rozanne Geranium: This perennial’s violet flowers bloom from June to September. 18 to 20 inches tall and 24 inches wide. A former Perennial Plant of the Year.

Ruby Star Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea ‘Ruby Star’): As tall as 48 inches, this coneflower attracts birds but is deer-resistant.

Salvia ‘May Night’: An older hardy Salvia cultivar (1955) but still reliable, it provides spikes of deep indigo blue from the end of May into June. Needs well drained soil.

Shasta Daisy Becky: One of the best Shasta daisies. It blooms prolifically from July through August and reaches 30 inches or taller.

Learn How to Build an Herb Garden Here ~More on List of Perennials

Successful Gardening ~
Kali S Winters

Articles of Interest:
Plants Listed by Common Names
List of Essential Oils Blends
Essential Oil Properties



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Kali’s Series on Beautiful Tips for Skin & Hair

Follow Kali’s entire series on Beautiful Tips for Skin and Hair below:

Learn to create over 1000 home hair remedies… 
Visit Kali’s sister site: Hair Remedies at Home

 

Beautiful Tips for Skin and Hair ~Part 1

Beautiful Tips for Skin and Hair Part 2 ~ List of Beauty Herbs



Bay Essential Oil


Bay rum essential oil, Pimenta racemosa, has a sweet, spicy, balsamic aroma. It is a warming oil that helps calm the mind and relieve aches and pains from rheumatism.

Bay essential oil can be used in hair care preparations to relieve scalp conditions and to act as a hair tonic. Combine with rose and juniper for a calming bath oil. Bay blends nicely with cedarwood, eucalyptus, geranium, ginger, juniper, lavender, citruses, rosemary and ylang ylang. Bay is often used to make after shaves. Should not be confused with bay laurel oil.

Bay LeavesBay Pimenta

 


Botanical Name:

Pimenta racemosa

Botanical Family:

Myrtaceae—Not to be confused with Laurel leaf oil (Laurus nobilis)

Origin:

St. Thomas (Virgin Islands), Jamaica, South and Central America. Modern: the oil is obtained mostly from Morocco and Spain.

Method of Extraction:

Steam (salt or sea water sometimes used in process) distilled from the leaves collected from five-year old (minimum) shrubs.

Perfume Note:

Top note

Aroma:

Spicy, fresh, sweet, balsamic undertone

Yield:

0.5-1.5%

Blends Well With:

Cedar Wood, Coriander, Eucalyptus, Geranium, Ginger, Juniper, Lavender, Lemon, Orange, Rose, Rosemary, Thyme and Ylang-Ylang.

Most Valuable Uses:

Rheumatism, muscular pain, neuralgia, circulation, colds, flu, calming, dental infections, diarrhea, skin infections, general fatigue.

Therapeutic Properties:

Antiseptic, antibiotic, analgesic, anti-neuralgic, anti-infectious, general stimulant, hypertensive.

Health Benefits:

Protects against septic, inhibits microbial growth, gives relief from pain of neuralgia, relaxes spasm, pain relief, increases appetite, tightens gums & muscles and helps stop hair fall & hemorrhage, promotes bile secretion, opens obstructed menstruations, reduces fever, kills & repels insects, sedates inflammations & nervous afflictions, good for stomach, increases perspiration & removal of toxins, tones up body

Main Chemical Components:

Eugenol, Chavicol, Myrcene, Cineol, Menthyl eugenol.

Cautions:

Don’t use bay oil if you have cancer. Are a hemophilia or prone to alcoholism. Use in moderation.

Consistency:

Medium to watery viscosity – deep yellow in color

Shelf Life:

1 year

Substitutions:

Sometimes known as “Bay Rum” Essential Oil

Suggested Uses:

Bay oil can be used in the treatment of rheumatism, neuralgia, muscular pain, circulation problems, colds, flu, dental infection, and diarrhea and skin infections.

Description:

A Small evergreen tree growing to 25 feet high with small branches bearing strongly aromatic leaves and small white flowers forming a floral head.

Treat Yourself Wisely and Safely

Note and Disclaimer

The information and opinions provided herein are for general educational purposes only and do not replace medical advice. It is your responsibility to consult a suitably qualified medical practitioner to ensure that you will not have any medical problems from any products.

Bay oil should not be used during pregnancy. Use sparingly and well diluted on the skin.



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Articles of Interest:

List of Dried Herbs & Their Uses:
Using Kitchen Herbs

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Where To Purchase Bay Essential Oil:

              

More About Bay Tea :

              



Essential Oil Properties

 

Where To Purchase Essential Oils A-F
Where To Purchase Essential Oils G-M
Where To Purchase Essential Oils N-Z
Where To Purchase Essential Oil Kits





Basil Oils


Basil essential oil, Ocimum basilicum, acts as a nerve tonic and helps with fatigue, depression, increases alertness, aids in concentration, relieves headaches, head congestion, migraines and muscular aches and pains. Basil essential oil helps regulate the menstrual cycle, reduces menstrual cramps, and can help with engorged breasts. Basil is anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial and anti-spasmodic and is useful as an insect repellent. Basil blends nicely with rosemary and citrus oils.

Do not use if you are pregnant or have a seizure disorder. Use sparingly on the skin because it can cause irritation.

Basil

 

Basil 1

Botanical Name:

Ocimum basilicum

Botanical Family:

Labiatae

Origin:

India Egypt, France, USA, Italy, Spain, Vietnam

Method of Extraction:

Steam distilled from the leaves of the herb and the flowering tops

Perfume Note:

Top note

Aroma:

Sweet, spicy aroma with balsamic undertone

Yield:

0.1-0.2%

Viscosity:

Watery

Blends Well With:

Bergamot, Black Pepper, Cedarwood, Fennel, Ginger, Geranium, Grapefruit, Lavender, Lemon Marjoram, Neroli and Verbena.

Most Valuable Uses:

Weak nervous conditions, mental fatigue, headaches, tension, stress, muscular spasm, concentration, physical and mental sluggishness.

Health Benefits:

Skin care, indigestion, respiratory problems, infections, stress disorder, blood circulation, pain relief, vomiting.

Properties:

Has been traditionally used as an antidepressant, antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, digestive and expectorant

Cautions:

Not to be used during pregnancy but otherwise, relatively non-toxic, non-irritant with some possible sensitization in some individuals. Can cause irritation to sensitive skin. Should not be used on children under 16 years of age. Not to be used in baths.

Consistency:

Watery viscosity and is pale greenish-yellow in color

Shelf Life:

Use within 2 years of harvest

Suggested Uses:

Apply to the tip of the nose, to the temples, and to stings and bites. For mental fatigue, inhale first, then apply to the crown of the head, forehead, heart, and navel. May be added to food or water as a dietary supplement.

Description:

Annual herb growing up to three feet high, the flowers are white-ish to pink-ish, depending upon species.

Interesting Facts:

Derived from the Greek word for “king,” Basileus. In Ayurvedic medicine it is called tulsi. Considered a holy herb in India, sacred to Krishna and Vishnu. Became the protective plant of the house and spirit of the family. It is said that every good Hindu places basil leaf on his/her chest when resting. Also associated with scorpions—perhaps because the oil can prickle when in direct contact with the skin.

Note and Disclaimer: The information and opinions provided herein are for general educational purposes only and do not replace medical advice. It is your responsibility to consult a suitably qualified medical practitioner to ensure that you will not have any medical problems from any products.

Treat Yourself Wisely and Safely




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Articles of Interest:

Growing Basil Indoors

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Personal Fragrance Toilette


It is a simple task to make delicately scented eau de cologne, floral waters, and oils. The water can be used for scent only or added to other herbal preparations in place of an infusion or for added fragrance. Oils can be added to the bath or used to scent the skin.

The amounts in the following recipes are for fresh herbs. If you are using dried herbs, use only half as much.

Spicy Eau De Toilette:
6 Tbsp chopped angelica leaves
6 Tbsp chopped basil
2 Bay leaves
2 Tbsp coriander seeds
1 Nutmeg, broken into small pieces
1 Tbsp cloves
three 3-inch cinnamon sticks, crushed
2 cups unscented rubbing alcohol or vodka

Place all ingredients in a glass jar with a tight-fitting cover. Let the jar sit in a warm place for several weeks, then strain and pour the eau de cologne into a sterilized bottle.

Eau De Cologne:
½ cup Lavender
¼ cup Rosemary
Peel of 1 lemon
Peel of 1 orange
½ cup orange mint
½ cup lemon balm
2 cups rose water
2 cups vodka

Place all ingredients in a large glass jar with a cover and let them steep for 8 to 10 days. Strain and pour into a sterilized bottle.

Make a fresh smelling eau de cologne by soaking fragrant herbs, spices and fresh-scented citrus in alcohol or vodka. Steeping angelica, basil and spices in alcohol or vodka produces a spicy cologne suitable for either sex. Colognes can be sweetly floral, pungently herbal or headily spicy.

Learn to Grow Your Own Herbs Here

Kali S. Winters


Articles of Interest:
Herbal Soap
Bath Herbs
Beauty Herbs

More on Herbal Toilette Here!



Vinegar ~ Herb Combinations


Herb vinegars are made perfectly with red or white wine vinegar. The preferred is actual wine vinegar, not wine flavored. Both can be obtained in quantity from a wholesale grocer or restaurant supply store. Due to its mellow flavor, wine vinegar allows the full herbal bouquet to be tasted, resulting in a gourmet quality. Any vinegar can be used as long as it has at least 5% acidity, although white and cider vinegars have stronger flavors themselves, masking the herbal flavor.

As a general rule, white vinegar is used when color is important, such as with chive blossoms or opal basil, and red vinegar is used for strong flavors such as basil, oregano, or garlic.

Usually the most popular are vinegars with just one flavor, although I have found the Bouquet Garni (below—using red or white wine vinegar) to be the favorite and most versatile. The more experienced herb growers and tasters will be willing to experiment with their own unique blends. The following guide can help determine which combinations would best satisfy your own tastes and needs.

White Wine Vinegars: Marjoram, opal basil (for a light rose result), burnet (a delicate cucumber flavor), chive blossom (a lovely pink), tarragon, thyme, nasturtium (a subtle peppery flavor), rosemary, lavender, rose petal (use pink rose petals from untreated rose bushes), pinks, violet (will turn a pale lavender color), or rose geranium (tint with 4 drops red food coloring). These last six were especially popular in the Victorian era and are useful to flavor beverages and fruit salads, as well as to use externally to soothe headaches, fevers, sunburn and insect bites!

Red Wine Vinegar: Dill, sweet basil, garlic (mash 6-10 cloves and taste for strength after 24 hours), sage, fennel (if using seeds, allow 2 heaping tablespoons per quart), lovage, spearmint or peppermint, bay, thyme chive (foliage only, not blossoms) caraway (2 heaping Tablespoons when using seed), or savory.

Herb Blends for Vinegar:
Dill-chive-peppercorn
Basil-garlic
Basil-chive
Garlic-chive
For Pork: sage-caraway
For Lamb: mint-rosemary
For Beef: basil-savory
For Poultry: sage-lovage
For Fish: fennel-bay

Here are two favorite blends to try, following the herb vinegar directions and using red or white wine vinegar for either, and fresh herbs (per quart):

Bouquet Garni Vinegar:
1 cup parsley, ½ cup each of thyme, bay and rosemary

Mixed Herb Vinegar:
¾ cup each chopped basil and marjoram; ½ cup each chopped rosemary thyme and savory.

Herb Vinegar Containers: A variety of containers can be recycled for home use by saving bottles from salad dressings, wine, or bottled beverages. Attractive containers for gift samples are small glass juice bottles. Fancy, decorative bottles can be found in dinnerware and gourmet shops. For larger bottle quantities contact a local bottle manufacturer or distributor. An 8 oz bottle size seems to be preferred for herb vinegars.

Decorative Wax and Ribbon Seal: This adornment gives the delicious herb vinegars the ribbon and seal they deserve! You will need: 1 cup of paraffin (available from the grocery canning section), ¼ cup powdered cinnamon (or cloves, nutmeg, allspice, or any combination) and 4-8” of grosgrain ribbon, preferably striped (length depends on size of bottle used). Procedure: In a metal can (15 ½ oz. size is best) placed in 1“ of water in a saucepan, melt paraffin and mix in powdered spices. Melt slowly on low heat and watch carefully to avoid fire. Paraffin will ignite on direct heat.

When paraffin is liquid, remove from heat and stir. Dip the capped end of the herb vinegar bottle in the wax a few times, allowing the wax to dry a few seconds between each dip. Put the mid-point of the ribbon over the cap and push down to secure both ribbon edges to the warm and pliable wax. Holding the ribbon ends out of the wax, dip the top end of the bottle repeatedly in the hot wax until the ribbon does not show through the seal. Dry about 30 seconds between dips or the coating will not build up. If the wax is too clear, add more spices and stir. When the wax in the can starts to congeal, reheat. More wax and cinnamon may be required to keep the level at 2-3”.

Allow wax to dry completely before touching or fingerprints will be noticeable. Then tie on attractive bow and if desired, attach a card listing herbs used. Cool remaining wax in can and save for future use.

To open wax sealed vinegar, score just below cap with a knife and turn lid. Wax and ribbon will remain on the cap, but will allow the bottle to be opened and closed.


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Herbal Soap


Making soap from scratch is an ambitious project that requires special ingredients such as lye and equipment that should be set aside for soap making only.  However, you can easily make your own herbal soap by starting with pure glycerine or castile soap and an herbal infusion. The addition of a little lanoline (available at your pharmacy) makes the soap very creamy and less drying to the skin.  If you want to give the soap even more of an herbal kick, you can also stir some of the chopped herb into the soap just before pouring it into the molds.

Rose Soap: You can increase the amounts of rose oil and coloring for a more intense rose impact if desired. In place of rose water you may want to try a combination of peppermint and rosemary; lemon balm or lemon verbena; orange mint; rose geranium; or lavender.

Ingredients:

Two 10-ounce bars of glycerine soap
½ – 1 cup rose water
1 Tbsp anhydrous lanolin
10 drops rose oil
10 drops red food coloring

Grate the soap with the grating disc of a food processor or by hand.  Combine the grated soap and ½ cup of the rose water in a glass or enamel container and melt over low heat, stirring occasionally. This may take some time; adding more rose water will speed the process, but the more liquid you add, the softer the finished soap will be.  When the soap is melted, stir in the lanolin, mixing well. Add the rose oil and the food coloring, stirring until blended. The herbal infusion may turn the soap the color of old oatmeal, but he addition of food coloring will remedy this.  Add the coloring drop by drop so that you can control the color. Remove from the heat.

Lightly oil several clean small round metal cans or a cut-off –milk carton with almond or vegetable oil.  The cans make individual soaps, the milk carton a bar that can then be cut into the sizes you want. Pour the soap into the molds, making sure there are no air bubbles. Let the soap set for a day or two before removing from the molds. At this point you can carefully cut large bars into individual cakes. Allow the soap to sit out to dry until it is quite hard.

Herbal soaps such as these of rose or a blend of rosemary and mint are easily made by melting grated castile or glycerine soap with an herbal infusion. Melt down any scraps or leftover bits with lots of water to make a gentle liquid soap to keep by the sink.


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Make Lavender Wands


Lavender WandsTo capture summer’s magic fragrance in your linens and wool sweater, make a lavender sachet utilizing the stems as well as the flowers. We like to call these lavender wands (because of the magic lavender cent inside) instead of lavender sticks or as the British call them, lavender bottles.

You will need: fresh blossoming lavender stems, 3 to 5 yards of ¼” satin ribbon in soft pastel colors, thread to match, straight pins, toothpicks. (You may use velvet ribbon, which looks nice and doesn’t slide easily, but it does cost more.)

To start your want to pick 13 to 19 stems, always using an uneven number (it is easier to start with 13 and graduate up). Pick the lavender in mid to late morning when the dew is off the flowers and the sun has not yet broiled the fragrance into the wind. The stems and flowers must be used immediately; otherwise they will break.

Bending the Lavender

Step 1: Tie the blossoms securely together with thread or a sturdy rubber band.

Step 2: Hold the blossoms with your left hand with the stems upward.

Step 3: Bend the stems down, one by one, very carefully, to form a parasol or umbrella.

Step 4: Place the ribbon (the length depends on how many stems are used), satin side up, under your left thumb and hold it securely on top of the blossoms.

Making Lavender Wands

Step 5: Weave the ribbon in and out of the stems in a basket weave for 2 or 3 rows.

Step 6: Bend the stems down over the flowers. Now the ribbon will look messy. Simply take a toothpick or crocket hook and tighten the ribbon until a neatly woven effect is achieved. Don’t pull so tight that the stems stain the ribbon.

Step 7: Continue weaving the ribbon in and out until the blossoms are covered.

Step 8: When you have 4 or 5 inches of woven stems, wrap the ribbon around the stems and secure with a pin. Let dry for two weeks.

Step 9: The stems will shrink while drying. Trim the stems even. Neaten appearance with toothpick as before. Wrap remaining ribbon around stems and secure with matching thread. A bow may be tied at either or both end of the stems.



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Herbs to Drink ~ Tisanes


A tisane, or tea, is simply an infusion made by adding boiling water to the leaves or flowers of herbs. In many parts of Europe, herbal teas have been an accepted part of the standard eating habits for years. Indeed, a cup of tisane taken after a rich meal is as common as coffee is in other parts of the world. Unlike tea and coffee, however, tisanes contain neither tannin nor caffeine, both strong stimulants and are much more suitable for aiding the digestion or promoting sleep.

Prepared tisanes are available from herbal shops, homeopathic pharmacist (drugstores) and health food stores in either sachet form or loose. The ailments they are reputed to help are given here but the cures cannot be vouched for.

If you grow your own herbs, why not make your own tisanes? Tisanes may be made from fresh or dried herbs. The actual preparation is much the same as making ordinary tea, and like ordinary tea it may be drunk on its own or with the addition of milk, a slice of lemon, honey or sugar.

Method: If you are making the tisane in individual tea cups, allow one level tablespoon of fresh herbs per cup or one level teaspoon of dried herbs. Pour on the boiling water, cover the cup and leave to infuse for three to five minutes. If your are making it in a teapot, allow however many table or teaspoons required for each cup, plus one for the pot. Leave to infuse for about five minutes and pour through a strainer into the cups.

For teas made from seed, these should first be pounded in a mortar, then follow the same process as for dried herbs.

List of Medical Plants: The most common herbs, together with any generally recognized properties they may have are listed below:

Angelica:
Parts Used: Leaves
Effect: Helps headaches and exhaustion

Balm: (Melissa)
Parts Used: Leaves
Effect: Taken hot or cold, this tea is soothing and relaxing.

Basil:
Parts Used: Leaves
Effect: Taken hot or cold, this teas helps gastric upsets and colds

Bergamot:
Parts Used: Leaves
Effect: Drink alone or mixed with China (non-fermented) tea. Relaxing and sleep inducing.

Borage:
Parts Used: Leaves
Effect: Hot or cold, borage tea is an exhilarating tonic and help catarrh.

Catnip:
Parts Used: Leaves
Effect: A tonic that lessens fever and headaches.

Chamomile:
Parts Used: Flowers
Effect: Digestive and soothing, particularly useful for soar throats when it may be also used as a gargle.

Coltsfoot:
Parts Used: Flowers or Leaves
Effect: Used for catarrh and chest complaints. Contains vitamin C.

Comfrey:
Parts Used: Leaves and Dried Roots
Effect: Soothing and a digestive, helps chest complaints

Dandelion:
Parts Used: Leaves
Effect: Beneficial to liver, helps rheumatism and acts as a general tonic and blood purifier.

Dandelion:
Parts Used: Roots Dried, roasted and ground.
Effect: Used as a substitute for coffee and as a diuretic.

Elder:
Parts Used: Flowers
Effect: Delicious, sleep-inducing and good for throat infections and colds.

Horehound:
Parts Used: Leaves
Effect: Coughs and colds

Hyssop:
Parts Used: Leaves
Effect: Taken hot or cold helps coughs and colds

Juniper:
Parts Used: Berries
Effect: Antiseptic and stimulant, good for chest complaints, indigestion and nerves.

Lady’s Mantle
Parts Used: Leaves
Effect: Premenstrual and menstrual tension.

Lime:
Parts Used: Flowers
Effect: Delicious, sleep-inducing, soothing drink, good for colds and indigestion.

Lovage:
Parts Used: Leaves
Effect: More like a broth, add salt for a cleansing and refreshing drink.

Melilot:
Parts Used: Whole Plant
Effect: Wind and general tonic.

Mint: (especially Peppermint and Spearmint)
Part Used: Leaves
Effect: Taken for colds, headaches, diarrhea, heartburn, nausea and stomachache.

Nettle:
Parts Used: Leaves
Effect: General tonic and blood purifier

Parsley:
Parts Used: Leaves
Effect: General tonic and diuretic

Rosemary:
Parts Used: Leaves
Effect: Headaches and insomnia

Sage:
Parts Used: Leaves
Effect: General Tonic

Thyme:
Parts Used: Leaves
Effect: Good for coughs and sinus ailments

Vervain: (verbena)
Parts Used: Leaves and Dried Roots
Effect: Slightly bitter tisane, acts as a sedative and digestive.

Yarrow:
Parts Used: Leaves
Effect: Taken for fevers, coughs, colds and as a general tonic.

Tisanes may also be made from the seeds of fennel and caraway and the leaves of tansy, costmary and St. John’s wort.

Do not expect instant results from drinking a tisane, their benefits are cumulative.



More Recipes Here~

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Herb Vinegars


Herb vinegars delight both the palate and the eye and allow you to preserve the harvest in a mellow gourmet blend of flavor and herbs. These vinegars lend themselves to many uses in sauces, marinades, salad dressings, stews, and beverages, and they are as individual as their creator. The herbs enclosed in the bottle can be snipped and used through the winter months when garden herbs are dormant.

The best time to collect fresh herbs is in the morning, after the dew has dried from the foliage but before the hot sun has evaporated the essential oils from the leaves.

Basic Recipe
1 cup fresh, firmly packed herbs
3 ½ cups vinegar (5% acidity)
Yield: approximately 1 quart

Wash the herbs by swishing them gently in a basin of cool water, being careful not to bruise the leaves and prematurely releasing the oils. Remove any discolored or insect-damage leaves. (Herb stems can be used.) Pat the herbs dry or spin in a vegetable spinner to remove excess water. Allow to air-dry thoroughly because water will make the vinegar cloudy, although it will not affect the flavor.

Using a wooden spoon, pack the herbs in a dry, sterilized quart jar (due to a chemical reaction, vinegar should not come in contact with metal). Fill the jar with vinegar to within 1 inch from the top. With the wooden spoon, push down and bruise the herb leaves in the vinegar. Shake to remove any air bubbles. Cover first with plastic wrap when using a metal lid. Label and date each jar to indicate the herbs used.

Some people like to heat the vinegar to just below boiling point before pouring it over the herbs. The advantage to this is that the warmed vinegar releases the essential oils from the herbs more rapidly. The disadvantage is that some acidity will be destroyed if the vinegar becomes too warm, thereby changing its quality. Given the facts, you be the judge, but I have found that unheated vinegar saves time and yields an excellent product.

Store in a cool, dark place for 4-6 weeks, shaking the mixture every few days. If you’re impatient for the bouquet to develop, the jars may be put out in the sun. The warmed vinegar may become slightly cloudy. A taste test will determine the right strength for your individual needs. If the flavor is too strong, dilute with unflavored vinegar; if not “herbal” enough repeat the process with fresh herbs.

When you are satisfied with the flavor, strain through a plastic colander to remove and discard the herbs. Then strain through paper coffee filters until the paper is clean. Although it may take 4 to 5 times, this removes all herbal debris and the result is a crystal clear product.

Pour the vinegar into hot, dry bottles that have been sterilized or put through a hot wash and dry cycle of the dishwasher. Add a sprig or two of fresh, washed and dried herbs to the bottle. When using a variety of herbs in the blend include a sprig of each. (the most eye-appealing herb vinegar bottles contain many herb sprigs~) cap immediately.

More Oil & Vinegar Recipes
Fragrant Oils



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Herbal Vinegars

              

Grow Your Own Herbs

              



Making Homemade Herb Wine ~ Part 2


Learn to Make Homemade Nettle Beer in Part 1 of this series

Herbal wines are made from an infusion of the chosen herb often referred to as herb tea or tisane. The spent herbs must be strained out of the infusion. A remnant of net curtain or muslin can be made into a bag and the herbs placed inside. The bag is then pressed to extract the full flavor.

The most welcome modern adjunct to home wine making is concentrated pure grape juice. Old recipes for herbal wines usually add dried grapes, often picturesquely described as ‘raisins of the sun’. Grape concentrate is a trouble free substitute and gives an excellent vinosity. There is an enormous variety available.

The mixture of liquids to be fermented is called the must.

Yeast: Fermentation is caused by the addition of yeast to the must. If you have been browsing through old books you will be familiar with the recommendation to float brewer’s yeast on toast in the liquid—this should be avoided at all costs. A vigorous fermentation can be obtained using dried baker’s yeast, but it is preferable to use a true wine yeast (available from home wine kit suppliers.) there are several quick-acting, general purpose yeasts which produce reliable results. To work effectively, the yeast needs to be sustained by the addition of certain salts. These are bought already mixed as a yeast nutrient (available from home wine kit suppliers). Use more or less nutrient in relation to the quantity of fruit juice you use. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions, as these will vary.

Yeast works best in an acid medium. Herb infusions may be low in acid. By adding the juice of lemons or oranges or crystals of citric acid this can be remedied.

Sweetener: Honey was the traditional sweetener of the herbal wine maker. In wines made with bitter herbs the dual taste of the sharp leaf or flower and the soft sweetness of honey is a gastronomic delight. Whenever you can—use honey in place of sugar to sweeten your wine. The wine is then called a Melomel.

Equipment: The basic equipment needed for home wine making is extremely simple and costs very little. Some of the items may already be in the home.

9 liters/2 gallons (20 pints) boiling container
9 liters/2 gallons (20 pints) plastic pail with a lid
4.5 liter/1 gallon (10 pints) fermentation and storage jars
Airlock for each fermentation jar.
A siphon tube at least 1.2m/4 ft long
Wine bottles
Corks and Corking tool
Nylon strainer—at least 15cm/6 inch in diameter
Funnel—at least 15cm/ 6 in diameter.

Do not use any equipment made of iron, steel, copper and brass as these will spoil your wine. In all wine making it is essential to keep equipment clean and sterile. The method for all the recipes given here is basically the same.

Dandelion Wine:
Pick the dandelion flowers on a warm sunny morning. Shake out any small insects. Then holding he yellow petals with one hand, twist off the calyx and stem. These are too bitter for wine and should be discarded.

Ingredients:
5 cups Dandelion petals
½ can *commercial grape concentrate
1 Lemon
1 Orange
1 teaspoon Citric acid
¾ cup infused tea or grape tannin
3 cups Sugar or clear Honey
Wine yeast and nutrient
Campden tablets
*/can grape concentrate refers to the size sold to make 4 ½ liters/1 gallon (10 pints) of wine.

Place everything except the dandelions and the yeast into a bucket. Make an infusion of the dandelion flowers and allow to stand for about half an hour. Strain the infusion into the bucket and stir thoroughly until all is dissolved. Allow to cool to 24 C (75F) and add yeast.

Fermentation: The bucket should be placed in a warm room for the first fermentation which should last from three to six days. This is the aerobic (in the presence of air) fermentation, nevertheless the bucket must have a lid or be fitted with a clean cloth held in place by a firm band.

As the yeast starts to work considerable bubbling and frothing occurs. The must will change to a milky color as the yeast grows. Once the fermentation gets under way the must should be transferred to a fermentation jar. This should be topped off with water and a fermentation or air lock fixed.

Keep your eye on the fermentation lock for the first few days to make sure there is always water present to maintain the trap. Evaporation my necessitate topping off daily. The temperature should be maintained at about 21 C (70F).

Fermentation will gradually decrease and after about four or five weeks the line of bubbles around the top of the container will have died completely away—if not wait another few days to make sure no gas is being given off.

Storage: Dead yeast and perhaps other solid matter (the lees) will by now have settled at the bottom of the fermentation jar. If left there unpleasant flavor may be imparted to the wine, so they should be removed.

To do this, the wine has to be siphoned into a second sterilized container with a siphon tub. Stand the wine container on a table and set the second container on the floor. This process is called racking the wine and must be done several times. The lower container should be topped with cooled boiled water if necessary, as it is preferable to have the minimum of air space remaining.

Crush one Campden tablet per 4.5 liters/1 gallon (10 pints) of wine and add before sealing the container with a solid bung or safety lock—these tablets act as a preservative and help to stop further fermentation. Sore in a cool dry place.

Rack off the wine into a clean container every eight weeks or so, to remove sediment until the wine become clearer.

Bottling: When the wine is clear, only then is it ready to be bottled. For each 4.5 liters/1 gallon (10 pints) of wine you will need six sterilized bottles and corks. Always label your bottles. The wine should then be stored from three to six months although, like herb beer, it will improve for keeping a month or so longer if possible.

Many flowers can be used instead of dandelions. Broom, clover, coltsfoot, cowslip and roses all make delightful wine. Some flowers such as carnation, elderflower, chamomile and wallflower have a more pungent taste and should be used sparingly. No more than 0.5 liter/1 pint (2 ½ cups) flowers should be infused for each 4.5 liters/1 gallon (10 pints) wine. Any herb that makes an herb tea or tisane can be used as a basis for wine. Lemon balm, sage, rosemary, raspberry leaves, borage and comfrey are recommended. Young blackberry shoots also make a light wine. There is always lots of room for experimentation.

Making Homemade Herbal Beer ~ Part 1

Making Herbal Teas



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Making Herbal Beer and Herb Wine ~Part 1


Wine and beer have been made in the home since time immemorial and as commercial wines become more and more expensive, interest in this ancient domestic art is reviving. Almost any fruit, vegetable or herb can be used for wine making and brewing beer—even the dregs of tea.

A number of shops sell very adequate wine making kits and equipment. Once the initial outlay has been made it is only necessary to purchase or grow the ingredients for subsequent batches as the equipment can be used over and over again.

Herb Beer
Herbal beer is a term usually applied to beers made with herbs other than hops. The hop is however a wild herb as well as being widely cultivated for beer making.

After the initial investment in equipment, the cost of making beer, especially from herbs like the common nettle, is relatively small.

Equipment:
Large pan (sufficient to contain all the weeds collected)
4.5 liter/1 gallon (10 pint) polythene or plastic fermenting vessel with a lid
(polythene or plastic bucket will suffice)
Strainer or remnant of terylene net curtain
Wooden spoons
Bucket or other larger container
Beer Bottles (cleaned and sterilized) and stoppers

The equipment should always be used spotlessly clean and if possible sterilized. (Kits for sterilizing babies’ bottles are useful for this task)

Nettle Beer
Using rubber gloves and scissors gather fresh, young green stinging nettle shoots. Take only the top two or three pairs of leaves. The quantity is not vital, but the shoots, not pressed down, should just about fill the brewing bucket. This will make approximately 4.5 liters/ 1 gallon (10 pints).

Crystal malt, hops and ale yeast (for quantity follow the manufacturer’s instructions) are obtainable from home wine and beer kit suppliers. One teaspoon of citric acid may be substituted for juice of half a lemon.

Ingredients:
Nettles
4 oz. Crystal Malt (broken)
2 lbs Malt extract
1 cup sugar
1 handful of dried hops
Juice of ½ lemon
¼ teaspoon Salt
Yeast

Simmer the washed nettles and crystal malt in a large pan for about 40 minutes.

Put malt extract, sugar, lemon juice and salt into the fermenting vessel fitted with a good lid and strain contents on to the washed nettles and crystal malt. A remnant of terylene net curtain is preferable to an open strainer. The nettle shoots should be squeezed by gloved hands, to extract the full flavor. Stir the mixture thoroughly.

Make the quantity up t o 4.5 liters/1 gallon (10 pints) with tap water.
When cool (between 18-20 C or 65-70 F), stir in yeast according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Maintain his temperature, and keep the vessel covered.

Allow fermenting for four to seven days. Remove the yeast from the top at intervals if necessary. When fermenting has finished the liquid looks clear and bubbles cease to rise. Siphon beer into another clean container.

Dissolve ¼ cup sugar in a small quantity of hot water. Add to the beer. Siphon into clean beer bottles and stopper down well. Store in a warm room for two days.

Transfer to a cool place and store for at least a month before drinking.

Make Herb Wine ~ Part 2

Learn to Grow Your Own Nettles Here!
Kali S Winters





Plants Listed by Common Names


Herbing Guide ~ Just click on the plant name for pictures of herbs medicinal uses, essential oils properties and definition. *Please check back again ~ I am in the process of providing the entire list…..Thank You~

Agrimony

Agrimonia eupatoria

Alfalfa

Medicago sativa

Angelica

Angelica archangelica

Arnica

Arnica montana

Artichoke

Cynara scolymus

Ashwagandha

Withania somnifera

Astragalus

Astragalus membranaceus

Balm

Melissa officinalis

Basil

Ocimum basilicum

Bayberry

Myrica cerifera

Bearberry

Arctostaphylos uva-ursi

Bergamot

Citrus bergamia

Black Cohosh

Cimicifuga racemosa

Blackberry

Rubus villosus

Bladderwrack

Focus vesiculosus

Blessed Thistle

Cnicus benedictus

Blue Cohosh

Caulophylum thalictroides

Blue Flag

Iris versicolor

Bogbean

Menyanthes trifoliate

Boneset

Eupatorium perfoliatum

Buchu

Agathosma betulina

Burdock

Arctium lappa

Calendula

Calendula officinalis

California Poppy

Eschscholzia californica

California Spickenard

Aralia californica

Cascara Sagrada

Rhamnus purshiana

Catnip

Nepeta cataria

Cayenne

Capsicum spp.

Celery Seed

Apium graveolens

Centaury

Centaurium umbellatum

Chamomile

Matricaria chamomilla

Chaparral

Larrea mexicana

Chaste Tree

Vitex agnus-castus

Chicory

Cichorium intybus

Chickweed

Stellaria media

Cinnamon

Cinnamomum zeylanicum

Clary Sage

Salvia sclarea

Cleavers

Galium aparine

Clove

Eugenia caryophllata

Coffee

Coffea Arabica

Coltsfoot

Tussilago farfara

Comfrey

Symphytum officinale

Coriander

Coriandrum sativum

Corn Silk

Zea mays

Couch Grass

Agropyron repens

Cramp Bark

Viburnum opulus

Cranesbill

Geranium maculatum

Cubeb

Piper cubeba

Damiana

Turnera diffusa

Dandelion

Taraxacum officinale

Devil’s Club

Oplopanax horridus

Dill

Anethum graveolens

Dong Quai

Angelica sinensis

Echinacea

Echinacea purpurea

Echinacea angustifolia

Echinacea pallida

Elder

Sambucus nigra

Elecampane

Inula Helenium

Eucalyptus

Eucalyptus globulus

Eyebright

Euphrasia officinalis

False Unicorn

Chamaelirium luteum

Fennel

Foeniculum vulgare

Fenugreek

Trigonella foenum-graecum

Feverfew

Tanacetum parthenium

Frankincense

Boswellia carteri

Fringetree

Chionanthus virginica

Flaxseed

Linum usitatissimum

Garlic

Allium sativum

Gentian

Gentiana spp.

Geranium

Pelargonium graveolens

Ginger

Zingiber officinale

Ginkgo

Ginkgo Biloba

Ginseng

Panax spp.

Goat’s Rue

Galega officinalis

Golden Rod

Solidago virgauria

Golden Seal

Hydrastis canadensis

Gota Kola

Centella asiatica

Grapefruit

Citrus paradise

Gravel root

Eupatorium purpureum

Guarana

Paullina cupana

Gumweed

Grindelia spp.

Hawthorn

Crataegus spp.

Grataegus oxyacantha

Herlichrysum

Helichrysum italicum

Hops

Humulus lupulus

Horehound

Marrubium vulgare

Horsechestnut

Aesculus hippocastanum

Horseradish

Armoracia rusticana

Horsetail

Equisetum arvense

Ho shou wu

Polygonum Multiflorum

Hydrangea

Hydrangea arborescens

Hyssop

Hyssopus officinalis

Irish Moss

Chondrus crispus

Jasmine

Jasminum officinale
Jasminum grandiflorum

Kelp

Seaweed

Kola

Cola vera, C. acuminata

Lady’s Mantle

Alchemilla vulgaris

Lavender

Lavandula officinalis

Lemon

Citrus limonum

Licorice

Glycyrrhiza glabra

Linden

Tilia cordata

Lobelia

Lobelia inflata

Ma Huang

Ephedra sinica

Mandarin

Citrus reticulata

Marjoram

Origanum majorana

Marshmallow

Althaea officinalis

Meadowsweet

Filipendula urlmaria

Melilot

Melilotus officinalis

Milk Thistle

Carduus marianum
(Silybum marianum)

Motherwort

Leonurus cardiaca

Mugwort

Artemisia vulgaris

Mullein

Verbascum spp.

Mulberry

Morus spp.

Myrrh

Commiphora myrrha

Nasturtium

Tropaeolum majus

Neroli

Citrus aurantium var amara

Nettle

Urtica spp.

Oak Bark

Quercus spp.

Oat

Avena Sativa

Olive Leaf

Olea europaea

Orange

Citrus aurantium

Oregano

Origanum vulgare
Origanum Compactum

Oregon Grape

Berberis aquifolium Pursh.

Osha

Ligusticum porteri

Parsley

Petroselinum sativum

Partridge berry

Mitchella repens

Pasque Flower

Anemone pulsatilla

Pau d’ Arco

Tabebuia spp.

Passion Flower

Passiflora incarnate

Patchouli

Pogostemon patchouli

Pennyroyal

Mentha pulegium

Peppermint

Mentha piperata

Periwinkle

Vinca major
(or Vinca minor)

Pine

Chimaphila umbellate

Pipsissewa

Pinus sylvestris

Plantain

Plantago lanceolata
Plantago major

Prickly Ash

Xanthoxylum americanum

Pumpkin

Cucurbita pepo

Raspberry

Rubus spp.

Red Clover

Trifolium pratense

Rose

Rosa damascena

Rosemary

Rosmarinus officinalis

Sage

Salvia officinalis

Sandalwood

Santalum album

St. John’s Wort

Hypericum perforatum

Sarsaparilla

Smilax spp.

Sassafras

Sassafras albidum

Saw Palmetto

Serenoa serrulata

Skullcap

Scutellaria laterifolia

Sheperd’s Purse

Capsella bursa-pastoris

Siberian Ginseng

Eleutherococus senticosus

Slippery Elm

Ulmus fulva

Sorrel

Rumex spp.

Southernwood

Artemisia abrotanum

Star Anise

Illicium anisatum

Strawberry

Fragaria vesca

Suma

Pfaffia paniculata

Tea Tree

Melaleuca alternifolia

Thuja

Thuja occidentalis

Thyme

Thymus spp.

Tumeric

Curcuma longa

Usnea

Usnea spp.

Uva Ursi

(See Bearberry)

Valerian

Valeriana officinalis

Vervain

Verbena officinalis

Wild Cherry

Prunus serotina

Wild Indigo

Baptisia tinctoria

Wild Lettuce

Lactuca virosa

Wild Oat

Avena fatua

Wild Yam

Dioscorea villosa

Willow Bark

Salix spp.

Witch Hazel

Humamelis virginiana

Wormwood

Artemisia absinthium

Yarrow

Achillea millefolium

Yellow Dock

Rumex crispus

Yerba Manza

Anemopsis californica

Yerba Mate

Ilex paraguensis

Ylang Ylang

Canaga odorata

Yohimbe

Pausinystalia yohimba

Yucca

Yucca spp.


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